In the early
eighties, I purposefully got myself lost one evening in the back
streets of Kathmandu and came across the sounds of harmonium,
tabla and a chorus of chanting voices. I was beckoned up a narrow
staircase and squeezed into the back of an attic room, crammed
with a dozen or so ecstatic, devotional Sufi singers reaching to
the heavens with their voices - and a bunch of rapt, smiling
onlookers like myself. The soaring spirituality of the Qawwali
music I encountered in that attic room was something completely
new to me. I came across it again when Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan
became one of the first big "world music" stars of the nineties.
And now, here it is again through The Rajasthan Express and this
exciting new "Junun" project.
Shye Ben Tzur is an Israeli musician who has for many years been
living in India and immersing himself in its musical traditions.
He composes and performs Qawwali songs in Hindi, Urdu and Hebrew,
thus transcending ethnic and religious boundaries through the
unifying force of music. For this collaboration he has brought in
Jonny Greenwood of Radiohead fame on guitar, bass guitar, drum
machine & computers, keyboard and the ancient French
electronic instrument Ondes Martenot, along with Nigel Godrich as
producer (also of Radiohead fame). They were hosted by the
Maharaja of Jodhpur in his 15th Century Mehrangarh Fort, and they
lined the wooden walls with mattresses and brought together an
amazing array of Indian musicians. First, a Rajasthani Brass
Ensemble with trombone, trumpets and three tubas to create the
biggest, fattest brass sound when required. Next a Qawwali Chorus
lead by Zaki and Zakir Ali and extended family, with obligatory
Harmonium, Saranghi, Khartal and Dholak as accompaniments.
"Junun"
translates as "madness of love", and Ben Tzur takes the
romantic poetry of the Sufis, which often portrays an intimate
relationship with God through language normally reserved for
lovers. He and the whole group of musicians and singers reach for
- and most definitely attain - something entirely new. Several of
the tracks are raucous, rambunctious and celebratory. Others are
more pared back, introspective and experimental. To
give you an idea, in English the track titles are "Dance",
"He", "Let's Go To That Land", "Ascetic", "Beloved",
"Let Go" and "Grateful". Then there is the short,
left-field ambient piece "There Are Birds in the Echo Chamber"
which captures the birds that insisted on flying in through open
windows and participating in the recording. The ecstatic, three
week-long party in the old Rajasthani Hill Fort was beautifully
captured by film-maker Paul Thomas Anderson in the film of the
same name "Junun - the madness of love", trailers and excerpts of
which are available on youtube. This is as exhilarating as music
gets.
The CD's featured on this blog are among my favourites from those I've recently discovered and played on my weekly radio show. You can hear the Local Global Show every Monday evening (8-10pm AustEST) on Bellingen's 2BBBfm Community Radio. It's a mix of World, Folk & Roots with a bit of Jazz, Punk & Hiphop thrown in for good measure. 107.3fm or 93.3fm if you are in the Bellingen area ; 2bbb.net.au or via the TuneIn App or Radio Garden from wherever you may be.
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